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Zezhol Monastery, a spiritual beacon of the Bon religion, Tibet (XiZang)

With China Road Tales ...

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Zezhol Monastery, a spiritual beacon of the Bon Religion

Perched dramatically on the cliffs of the renowned holy mountain, Mt. Zezhol, Zezhol Monastery stands as a remarkable testament to the enduring legacy of the Bon religion, one of the oldest spiritual traditions in Tibet; indeed, the indigenous faith of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Located in DingQing County, Chamdo, in eastern Tibet, this sacred site is situated at an impressive altitude of 4,800 meters, making it not only one of the highest monasteries in Tibet but also one of the most significant centers for the Bon religion. The monastery lies approximately 37 kilometers from the county town, adding to its mystique and remoteness, which only enhances its spiritual aura.

The Bon Religion: A Deep-Rooted Tradition

The Bon religion predates the introduction of Buddhism to Tibet and is believed to have originated in the ancient kingdom of Zhangzhung, centered around the sacred Mount Kailash. Bon has played a crucial role in shaping the spiritual and cultural landscape of Tibet, and despite the dominance of Tibetan Buddhism, Bon continues to thrive in certain areas, particularly in eastern Tibet and in communities that maintain strong ties to their indigenous spiritual heritage.

Bon is characterized by its unique practices and rituals, which include worship of nature spirits, ancestor reverence, and a rich tradition of oral teachings. The religion encompasses a wide array of rituals intended to harmonize with natural forces, protect communities from malevolent spirits, and promote the well-being of individuals and society as a whole. Central to Bon is the belief in the interconnectedness of all life, the importance of living in harmony with nature, and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.

Zezhol Monastery: A Center of Bon Spirituality

Zezhol Monastery is not only a religious site but also a living repository of Bon teachings and practices. The monastery's location on Mt. Zezhol, a mountain revered as sacred in the Bon tradition, underscores its importance as a place of pilgrimage and spiritual refuge. The faithful believe that the mountain itself is imbued with spiritual power, and the monastery, perched precariously on its cliffs, serves as a conduit between the physical and spiritual realms.

Founded centuries ago, Zezhol Monastery has been a pivotal center for the preservation and dissemination of Bon teachings. It houses ancient scriptures, sacred relics, and thangka paintings that depict the Bon deities and cosmology. The monastery’s monks continue to perform traditional Bon rituals, including offerings to the mountain spirits, ceremonies to ensure harmony between humans and nature, and the recitation of ancient Bon texts.

The Continuing Influence of Bon Today

Despite the rise of Tibetan Buddhism, the Bon religion has managed to survive and even thrive in certain areas of Tibet. Today, Bon practitioners can be found not only in Tibet but also in Nepal, Bhutan, and among the Tibetan diaspora worldwide. The influence of Bon is particularly evident in eastern Tibet, where communities still practice Bon rituals and uphold its teachings.

In some regions, Bon rituals are integrated into local Buddhist practices, creating a syncretic form of spirituality that honors both traditions. For instance, many Tibetan Buddhists incorporate Bon deities and rituals into their own religious practices, recognizing the deep cultural and spiritual roots that Bon has in Tibetan society. Furthermore, Bon teachings on the relationship between humans and the natural world continue to resonate, particularly in the context of environmental preservation and sustainable living.

Zezhol Monastery remains a vital symbol of this enduring legacy. Pilgrims from across Tibet and beyond visit the monastery to seek blessings, participate in rituals, and connect with the ancient spiritual traditions that have shaped their culture. The monastery’s remote location, high in the mountains, adds to its allure as a place of profound spiritual significance, where the faithful can retreat from the material world and engage deeply with the sacred.

Conclusion

Zezhol Monastery is more than just a religious site; it is a living testament to the resilience and continuity of the Bon religion in Tibet. As one of the highest and oldest Bon monasteries, it plays a crucial role in preserving this ancient tradition, offering a place of refuge and spiritual nourishment to those who seek to connect with the deep, mystical roots of Tibetan spirituality. In a rapidly changing world, Zezhol Monastery and the Bon religion it represents continue to provide a link to the past, offering insights and teachings that are as relevant today as they were centuries ago.

YunGang Caves, Hanging Temple, YingXian Pagoda, HengShan, Datong

Videographer : marcobandi

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YunGang Caves

The YunGang Grottoes, one of the three major cave clusters in China, punctuate the southern foot of the north face of WuZhou Mountain, in the ShiLi River valley, 16 km west of Datong City. The worked area extends about 1 km (0.7 miles) from east to west. There are 252 caves of various sizes and over 50,000 stone statues.

The Caves are divided into east, middle, and west parts. Pagodas dominate the eastern parts; west caves are small and mid-sized with niches. Caves in the middle are made up of front and back chambers with Buddha statues in the center. Embossing covers walls and ceilings.

Started in 450, YunGang Caves are a relic of the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534). Absorbing Indian Gandhara Buddhist art, Yungang sculptures developed traditional Chinese art blended with contemporary social features.

The Hanging Temple at Mount HengShan

The Hanging Monastery (XuanKong Si) is one of the most dramatic sights at HengShan - a wooden temple clinging to the cliff side about 75 meters (250 feet) above ground, appearing to defy gravity with only a few wooden posts as support. The Hanging Monastery, constructed from 491, has survived more than 1,500 years. The extant monastery was largely rebuilt during the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1911) dynasties and last restored in 1900. There are 40 wooden halls and structures linked by an ingenious system of pillars, posts and walkways.

HengShan lies in HunYuan County, ShanXi province. The closest city is Datong, 65 kilometers to the northwest. Although HengShan is one of the five sacred Taoist mountains of China, the temples and grottoes at this part of the mountain are all Buddhist, though with some Taoist, and Confucian influences.

Along with the YunGang Grottoes, the Hanging Temple is one of the main tourist attractions and historical sites in the Datong area. Built more than 1,500 years ago, this temple is notable not only for its location on a sheer precipice but also because it includes Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian elements. The structure is kept in place with wooden crossbeams fitted into holes chiseled into the cliffs; the main supportive structure is ingeniously hidden.

According to legend, construction of the temple started at the end of the Northern Wei dynasty by only one man, a monk named Liao Ran. Over a history of more than 1,500 years, many repairs and extensions have led to its present-day scale.

YingXian Pagoda

In the center of the small town, 75 kilometers south of Datong, stands the stately YingXian Pagoda, one of the oldest wooden buildings in China. Constructed in 1056 during the Liao dynasty, the octagonal pagoda, towers nearly 70m high in nine stories; an early masterpiece of structual engineering.

YongHeGong 雍和宫 Lama Temple, BeiJing

YongHe Lama Temple dates from 1722 (Qing dynasty).


Emperor QianLong conferred it with imperial status and its roof tiles were changed to those with the imperial golden yellow color. The monastery became home to many Tibetan monks and eventually it was declared the National Center of Lama Administration.


It is open to the public in the afternoons. The nearest subway station is YongHeGong (lines 2 and 5).


Among the many fascinating features is the impressive 26 metre tall statue of the Maitreya Buddha that was carved from a single trunk of White Sandalwood.


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